Julie Kegels' Fall 2026 Collection: Auramaxxing
In her latest collection, Belgian designer Julie Kegels presents a thought-provoking exploration of image control in the hyper-visible age. Set against a backdrop of dissonant violin plucks, her models stride with deliberate grace, drawing attention to the intricate construction of the garments. This collection, titled "Face Value," delves into the concept of aura, inspired by Andy Warhol's philosophy and the surreal portraits of Kyungwoo Chun, which in turn echo the ideas of Martin Heidegger's existentialism.
The collection showcases a unique interplay between shadow and authenticity, with a focus on unconventional silhouettes. Capes gracefully drape from shoulders, extending to the ankles, creating a ethereal effect. Jackets transform into flowing dresses, and pajama tops expand into grand gowns. A simple white button-down shirt becomes a dramatic cape, while a skirt appears to unravel at the waist, gracefully falling into a side drape.
Kegels' innovative approach involves capturing distorted patterns of garments in her Antwerp atelier, where lighting accentuates shadows. She then utilizes these distorted forms to craft entirely new silhouettes. Her technique, dubbed "forced tailoring," involves manipulating the body's stance, such as sleeves that push the arms forward with military precision. Shrunken pullovers are sliced open at the back of the shoulders, revealing colorful fabric wings.
"The aura is a shield," Kegels muses backstage. "We always present an appearance, but it may not reflect our true selves. The Julie Kegels woman seeks control, yet it remains an elusive pursuit."
Exposed seams and unfinished edges further emphasize the contrast between appearance and authenticity. Initially intended to be jarring, the jagged hats evoke the charming headgear of Calimero, inspiring Kegels to incorporate more childlike elements, such as cozy baby blankets that double as wrap skirts.
Despite the fleeting nature of aura, as Warhol famously noted, Kegels' collection demonstrates how the right ensemble can momentarily sustain our desired image. Her designs challenge us to embrace the complexities of authenticity and the power of fashion to shape our perception.
